Ulysse Nardin is a highly exclusive luxury watch brand with unapologetically aggressive marine-themed aesthetics and advanced, meticulously finished movements.
Ulysse Nardin History
Ulysse Nardin, founded in 1846 in Le Locle, Switzerland, by a young watchmaker of the same name, quickly established itself as a leader in precision timekeeping. Initially focused on marine chronometers, the brand became indispensable for maritime navigation during the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Ulysse Nardin’s chronometers were renowned for their accuracy, earning numerous awards, including the prestigious Prize Medal at the 1862 International Exhibition in London. The company supplied over 50 navies worldwide, including those of the United States and Great Britain, solidifying its reputation as a cornerstone of nautical exploration.
The original company didn’t survive the “quartz crisis” of the 1970s, but the brand was revived under Rolf Schnyder in 1983. Collaborating with master watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, Ulysse Nardin introduced groundbreaking complications and materials that pushed the boundaries of horology.
From perpetual calendars to constant-force escapements, its creations combined artistic flair with technological prowess. Today, Ulysse Nardin continues to honor its maritime heritage while innovating with modern in-house movements and high-end artistry like enamel dials.
Model Families
- Marine: A collection rooted in Ulysse Nardin’s history of marine chronometers, featuring highly accurate movements like the UN-118 and UN-150. These watches often include power reserve indicators, small seconds, and chronometer certification. The design emphasizes legibility and classic nautical aesthetics.
- Freak: A revolutionary series that eliminates traditional hands and dials, using the movement itself to indicate time. Known for its carousel tourbillon mechanism, silicon components, and innovative escapements like the Grinder system. Models include the Freak X (entry-level) and Freak S (high-end with double oscillator technology).
- Diver: A robust dive watch line with water resistance up to 300 meters, unidirectional rotating bezels, and luminous markers. Movements like the UN-816 (automatic) or higher-end calibers power these watches. Recent models, such as the Diver X and Diver NET, incorporate modern materials like recycled fishing nets for sustainability.
- Blast: A contemporary collection featuring skeletonized designs, angular cases, and advanced complications. Movements include the UN-172 (tourbillon) and UN-155 (chronograph). Notable models include the Blast Moonstruck, which displays astronomical data like moon phases and tidal patterns.
- Classico: A more traditional line focused on timeless designs, often featuring enamel dials crafted using ancient techniques like cloisonné or champlevé. Movements range from simple automatic calibers to more complex ones with perpetual calendars or moon phases.
- Executive: A modern collection with bold case designs and functional complications such as dual-time displays (UN-24 movement) or skeletonized dials showcasing intricate movement architecture.
- El Toro: A high-complication series featuring perpetual calendars with forward/backward adjustability via a single crown. Powered by the UN-32 movement, these watches combine technical sophistication with a distinctive aesthetic. Ulysse Nardin perpetual calendars are excellent, and relatively underappreciated compared to their peers.
- Sonata: A technical masterpiece offering a mechanical alarm function that chimes on cathedral gongs. It also includes dual-time functionality, a big date display, and an alarm power reserve indicator. Powered by the in-house UN-67 movement, it is one of the most mechanically complex models in their lineup.
Ulysse Nardin Ownership Timeline
- 1846: Ulysse Nardin founded the company in Le Locle, Switzerland. Ownership remained within the Nardin family for several generations, with Paul-David Nardin taking over in 1876 after Ulysse’s death.
- 1983: Swiss entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the company following/during the quartz crisis, revitalizing it in collaboration with Ludwig Oechslin.
- 2011: After Schnyder’s passing, his wife, Chai Schnyder, assumed leadership as Chairman of the Board.
- 2014: The Kering Group purchased Ulysse Nardin, integrating it into its luxury portfolio.
- 2022: Kering sold Ulysse Nardin to its management team, led by CEO Patrick Pruniaux, restoring the brand’s independence.
Ulysse Nardin Today
Ulysse Nardin is a relatively underappreciated watch brand among mainstream watch collectors, but for those in the know, their watches can represent a great value on the secondhand market.
The Jezz Bezos Ulysse Nardin
Jeff Bezos can obviously wear whatever watch he wants regardless of price, and he has been spotted wearing a Ulysse Nardin Dual Time multiple times. Michael Jordan has been seen wearing Ulysse Nardin watches as well.
Their finishing and complications are top-notch, so if you’re into the marine-themed imagery and un-hyped brand name, a pre-owned Ulysse Nardin is a great way to get an under-the-radar high-end luxury watch at a relatively reasonable price.