Rolex Submariner

Rolex Submariner History

The Rolex Submariner dive watch was released in 1953 to meet the needs of the relatively new sport of SCUBA diving. When it was introduced, the Submariner was the world’s first watch that could withstand pressure down to 100 meters deep. Aside from impressive water resistance, divers could also take advantage of the Submariner’s rotating bezel to keep track of immersion times, and the luminous dial permitted legibility underwater.

While the original Submariner featured a time-only dial, Rolex eventually expanded the collection with Submariner Date variants, complete with the Cyclops magnification lens over the date window at 3 o’clock. Today, the no-date Submariner watch is still exclusively made in stainless steel, always paired with a black bezel and dial. On the other hand, the collection of Submariner watches with date windows is more varied with a range of materials and colorways to choose from.

Throughout the history of the Submariner, Rolex has continuously enhanced the watches with deeper water resistance, better movements, and improved materials. For instance, while vintage Submariners had aluminum bezels and acrylic crystals, modern Submariner watches feature ceramic bezels and sapphire crystals. In 2020, Rolex replaced the once-customary 40mm case size of the Submariner with larger 41mm versions. 

Rolex Submariner Design, Features, and Options

Aside from being one of the most coveted luxury sports watches in the market, contemporary Rolex Submariner watches also have all the required features of a modern dive watch.

Modern Submariner Design Features:

• Ceramic unidirectional rotating bezels with a 60-minute scale to track diving times
• Water-resistant Oyster cases rated to 300 meters deep
• Dials with Chromalight-coated luminous hands and hour markers for legality in low light
• Oyster bracelet with a Glidelock diver’s extension to accommodate thick wet suits
• Scratch-resistant sapphire crystals
• Automatic movements with 70 hours of power reserve

No-Date Submariner vs. Submariner Date

Rolex offers two main versions of the Submariner: one with a date and one without. The no-date Submariners are only available in stainless steel with black dials and bezels. On the other hand, the Submariner Date models are available in plenty of other materials and colors.

Rolex Submariner Materials, Colorways, and Sizes

Depending on the model and specific reference, Submariner watches are available in 904L stainless steel (a.k.a. Oystersteel), yellow gold, white gold, and two-tone steel and yellow gold. There are also black, green, and blue dials and bezels to choose from.

More information about materials and dials:
Rolex Rose Gold: Every Everose Watch Produced by Rolex
A Complete Guide to Every Special Rolex Dial Ever Produced

Original Submariner watches had 38mm cases but Rolex increased them to 40mm around 1959. Submariner watches continued to have 40mm cases until 2020. In 2020, Rolex enlarged the entire Submariner collection with 41mm cases.

Rolex Submariner Reference Numbers and Serial Numbers

Since the Submariner has been in production for seven decades, there have been plenty of references and generations made over the years, which are outlined in the below tables.

Alternatively, for a detailed guide on how to find your Submariner’s serial number, don’t miss our Rolex Serial Numbers: The Ultimate Guide.

Current Submariner References (2020 to Present)

Discontinued Submariner 1166xx References (2008 – 2020)

Submariner 126610 vs. 116610

The Submariner ref. 126610 replaced the Submariner ref. 116600 in 2020. So what are the similarities and differences between them?

Both models are stainless steel Submariners with Cerachrom ceramic bezels. Furthermore, they both have date windows on their dials and therefore, they both also have Cyclops date magnification lenses affixed to their sapphire crystal. Their cases are water-resistant to 300 meters and their Oyster bracelets are furnished with Glidelock extension clasps.

There are some notable differences to consider when comparing the Submariner 126610 vs. 116610. For instance, the reference 126610 has a slightly larger case that measures 41mm while the reference 116610 features a 40mm case. What’s more, the Submariner 126610LV “Starbucks” has a green bezel and black dial while the Submariner 116610LV “Hulk” has a green bezel and dial. Another big difference between these two models is the movement that powers them; Submariner 126610 runs on Caliber 3235 with 70 hours of power reserve while Submariner 116610 runs on Caliber 3135 with 48 hours of power reserve.

Neo-Vintage Submariner 166xx References (1988 -2010)

Submariner 116610 vs. 16610

The Submariner ref. 116610 replaced the Submariner ref. 16610 in 2010, bringing forth a slew of updates. So what are the differences and similarities when we compare the Submariner 116610 vs. 16610?

Both reference 116610 and reference 16610 are stainless steel Submariners Date models available with either black or green bezels. They are fitted with three-link Oyster bracelets, fashioned in 904L stainless steel. Furthermore, they both have 40mm cases that are water resistant to 300 meters, and the watches run on the self-winding Caliber 3135 movement.

While on paper both references have the same case size, the Submariner 116610 sports what is known as a “Super Case,” which is characterized by a beefier profile, fatter lugs, and wider bezel. Therefore, the newer ref. 116610 wears bigger than its predecessor. The bezel is also different between the two as the older version has an aluminum insert while its replacement includes a scratch- and fade-resistant Cerachrom ceramic bezel. It’s also worth mentioning that the green Submariner 16610LV “Kermit,” which was launched to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Sub, includes a green bezel while its successor, the Submariner 116610LV “Hulk”

Also new to the Submariner 116610 was Rolex’s Chromalight luminescence that glows blue in the dark rather than the green SuperLuminova lume of the Submariner 16610. Yet another difference between the 116610 and 16610 is the clasp; the Submariner 116610 includes a Glidelock clasp that allows bracelets to be extended up to around 20mm in 2mm increments.

Neo-Vintage Submariner 168xx References (Approx. 1979 -1988)

Vintage Submariner References

Grey Market Submariner Watches

As with most Rolex sports watches, grey market prices for Submariner watches are typically higher than retail due to high demand. Stainless steel Submariners are particularly popular, as are full yellow gold models.

Learn more: The Most Popular Rolex Watches

An advantage of buying a Submariner from the grey market is that you bypass the so-called waitlists at Rolex authorized dealers. In short, buying pre-owned from the secondary market can get you access to current-production Rolex Submariner watches.

Another advantage of the grey market is that there is a much wider variety of references available, including vintage, neo-vintage, and rare pieces.

Commonly Asked Questions

How Much is a Rolex Submariner?

The price of a Rolex Submariner can vary significantly depending on the specific model, material, color, and year of production. The least expensive Rolex Submariner generally starts at $8,000 for an older pre-owned model while the retail price of the least expensive current Submariner model is $9,100. However, it’s important to note that Submariner prices for current-production references are generally more expensive on the secondary market due to demand outpacing supply.

More Detailed Price and Value Guides:
How Much Can I Get for My Used Rolex Submariner?
The Most Expensive Rolex Watches Ever Sold: Listed By Model

How Much is a New Rolex Submariner?

New Rolex Submariner watches range from $9,100 to $42,000 depending on the model, material, and color. A new Rolex Submariner Date in steel with a black bezel is priced at $10,250 while the same steel Submariner with a green bezel is priced at $10,800. However, remember that these are retail prices found at Rolex authorized dealers. And since Submariner watches are essentially impossible to buy new from an AD (unless you already have a long buying history with them), they are more expensive on the secondary market.

Also see: How to Sell My Rolex Watch

How to Wind a Rolex Submariner?

A Rolex Submariner runs on an automatic movement so it will continue to run as long as you wear it. However, if it runs out of power after being off the wrist for a while, it’s easy to wind it up. To wind a Rolex Submariner, unscrew the winding crown from the case and turn it at least 25 times clockwise. Turning the crown counter-clockwise will not affect the movement. After winding, screw the crown back into the case and your Submariner is ready to go.

Who Wears a Rolex Submariner?

From real-life celebrities and on-screen heroes to serious collectors and regular folk, plenty of people wear the Rolex Submariner. Some famous people (past and present) that wear Rolex Submariner include:

• David Beckham
• Drew Barrymore
• Gordon Ramsay
• Ellen
• James Bond
• Justin Theroux
• Leo Messi
• Mark Wahlberg
• Nas
• Orlando Bloom
• Queen Latifa
• Roger Federer
• Russell Wilson
• Slash
• Steve McQueen
• Tom Hardy

How to Spot a Fake Rolex Submariner?

Unfortunately, thanks to their immense popularity, Rolex Submariners are some of the most counterfeited watches out there. And as counterfeiters are producing better quality replicas, it’s only getting harder to tell the difference between a real Submariner and a fake Submariner. For detailed information on how to avoid getting duped by a phony Submariner, read How to Spot a Fake Rolex: The Ultimate Guide.

What are Some Submariner Nicknames?

Rolex nicknames are ubiquitous in watch collecting circles and the Submariner line has plenty of them including the Kermit, Hulk, Starbucks, Bluesy, Smurf, James Bond, Cookie Monster, and others.