Marco Ferrante: I heard today is going to be six Greubel Forsey’s, so we’re all just –
Roman Sharf: No. I know yesterday’s unboxing was like a $3 million unboxing. Not every day do we get that many watches. I have a strong feeling you may want to talk about this Calendar from Patek Philippe.
Marco Ferrante: This is beautiful. It’s a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar. Not much to say. They’re the masters of this complication. They’re the ones who were the first to do it in a write watch, and this is their 240 micro-rotor movement, which I think is probably their nicest movement that they do other than manual wind chronos. I think this is beautiful. This is classic Patek. There’s not much else to say. It’s just-
Roman Sharf: I will add to the Patek. Gary, what do you have to say about this classic Patek?
Gary: I love it. You know I’m a Patek guy.
Roman Sharf: Thank you. I appreciate it. One thing I will say about Patek’s is that yes the hype stuff is great, the Nautilus, the Aquanaut, and some of the other stuff that’s gone through the roof in the last years, one thing that’s always been slow and steady is that Perpetual Calendar line. As you said, this is what they’ve done. This is what they started, and this-
Marco Ferrante: This is their bread and butter.
Roman Sharf: Contrary to all belief, I know when I say Patek nowadays, people will think of a Nautilus, most likely, but when most people, believe it or not, think of a Patek, those true Patek collectors, this is the type of watch that they think of, and this is the type of watches that they purchase.
Marco Ferrante: Since Gary was just here, we could call it the Michael Jordan of Patek watched.
Roman Sharf: Don’t start that again. How about a two-toned Daytona? Two-tone in the last few years has caught up with a vengeance, and I think the watch responsible for it is the two-tone root beer.
Marco Ferrante: Yeah.
Roman Sharf: Personally.
Roman Sharf: Oh, here’s another Marco watch. When he goes whoo, you know it’s a Marco watch.
Marco Ferrante: It’s a heavy hitter.
Roman Sharf: All right. So I’m a big fan of value. Right? Today’s we talk … We can talk about this forever and ever and ever, but whenever it comes to buying Tourbillons from Breguet, much like the Patek, this is the guy that invented the Tourbillon, so it kind of goes with the territory. They know what they’re doing. You should wind this guy. Double retrograde. It’s a … I can’t say shit. This is the retrograde. That’s the power reserve. What’s that?
Marco Ferrante: Yeah. That’s 24 hour.
Roman Sharf: Yeah. The 24-hour indicator. Let me get this Tourbillon going, and I’ll let you talk about the finishes because I know that’s your-
Marco Ferrante: Yeah, I mean, I just want to start with this because this is incredible. This is all free-hand-engraved, right? You can imagine just how much time it takes, and if you fuck it up, you basically have to restart from the beginning.
Roman Sharf: Yeah. It’s like a pencil drawing basically.
Marco Ferrante: Yeah. It’s just crazy. So the amount of detail … This is my thumb, right? Look at my nail. The size of the engraving is so small. So the accuracy you have to have is incredible, and then sounds then you have obviously, Tourbillon invented by Breguet in 1801, white gold dial with the [inaudible 00:02:41], the palm hands, which are known as Breguet hands. I mean, this is classic Breguet.
Roman Sharf: It’s funny how their hands are known as the Breguet hands across all their models. That goes for something too, alone.
Marco Ferrante: You know, what’s so undervalued from people today is case and lug construction. These are all soldered on lugs. So they’ll literally solder them after the fact, and like this mid-case. It’s white gold or platinum.
Roman Sharf: White gold.
Marco Ferrante: White gold. So I mean, this is just crazy. Do you know what I mean?
Roman Sharf: One of the things that people underappreciate is the one thing that you love talking about, and that is the finishes. If you think about it, just go back to the basics, take the value aspect out of it, take the collectability aspect out, or the hype, or the demand. Right? If you look at a handmade watch, starting with the movement, obviously being fully handmade, et cetera, et cetera, but then the details, the finishing, the way the case is done, the way the lugs are started, those are a lot of the things you don’t hear people talk about, and it’s a shame I feel like.
Marco Ferrante: It’s a lost art too. There’s just not … At least before, right? Prior to the ’90s, you used to have case makers, bracelet makers, dial makers, and movement makers. They would all separately do the watches, and they would come together. That’s why the Stern’s, who were case makers, originally for Patek, right? It’s just a lost art.
Roman Sharf: Alex, what am I unboxing Alex?
Alex Serrano: The 16710
Roman Sharf: Oh, 167-
Alex Serrano: Shout out to Steven. He actually asked if he would be featured in the unboxing.
Roman Sharf: Shout out to Steven.
Marco Ferrante: There we go. Steven,
Roman Sharf: This is clean. I mean, one of the things that Adam taught me, shout out to Adam, from Menta Watches is, people ask me, what do I look for right away? Obviously, the most important thing on a vintage, this is neo-vintage, but one of the most important things on older and vintage watches especially is the dial first and foremost. For the watch that’s relatively young, still, and not really vintage, you want to look at the lugs. You want to look at the corners, and you want to make sure that these lugs are nice and sharp. Literally sharp, you can run your finger over it, and if it feels sharp, that means this watch hasn’t been over polished, re-polished, or polished a bajillion times. Here’s a not vintage that … Also Steven?
Alex Serrano: o, this is a shout-out to David.
Roman Sharf: Shout out to David. Who’s getting a 41-millimeter Datejust with a … Fluted or smooth?
Alex Serrano: This is smooth.
Roman Sharf: I know what it is.
Alex Serrano: I mean, I’m saying-
Roman Sharf: Thanks, Alex.
Alex Serrano: I would personally go with fluted on this just because of the jubilee.
Roman Sharf: I don’t know. I’m always … I don’t know, one day I feel one way or the other, but I look at this, this is so clean.
Alex Serrano: Yeah.
Roman Sharf: But then I feel like maybe on an oyster bracelet, it would look different, but that’s the beauty about Rolex is that … Let’s say whoever, David? David, you get into this watch, and tomorrow you want to have a completely different watch, you can literally go out there and order an oyster bracelet and you have a completely different watch. Which is really cool, that’s what I like about Rolex because everything is so interchangeable.
Alex Serrano: It’s also a gift.
Roman Sharf: Oh, it’s a gift. Okay.
Marco Ferrante: Okay. I also think that Datejust, correct me if I’m wrong, a Jubilee bracelet is distinctly Rolex, right?
Roman Sharf: Mm-hmm.
Marco Ferrante: Smooth bezels, sportier. I think it’s like the Rolex alternative to blue dial sports watch, like your Aquanaut, or Nautilus.
Roman Sharf: And it’s a hell of a different price range too.
Marco Ferrante: What do you think?
Marco Ferrante: Cause it’s a sporty, distinctly Rolex watch, I don’t know.
Roman Sharf: Speaking of sporty Rolex. How about, okay Skydweller and Jubilee or oyster then?
Marco Ferrante: Oyster.
Alex Serrano: 100%.
Nina: Jubilee
Alex Serrano: It needs to be on an oyster.
Alex Serrano: The watch is way too big to be on a Jubilee.
Roman Sharf: But can you imagine this? And Rolex will probably do this next year because they don’t really get very creative with do models. Imagine if they did this with a smooth bezel.
Marco Ferrante: Smooth bezel?
Roman Sharf: The problem with making this with a smooth bezel is because, for those of you that know how to use it, to adjust it, you have positions, and it would be very tough to do that with a smooth bezel.
Marco Ferrante: Yeah.
Roman Sharf: I mean, you could do it, but the fact that this would be smooth would make it a little bit more difficult.
Marco Ferrante: Yeah.
Roman Sharf: The most complicated Rolex today.
Marco Ferrante: Yeah.
Roman Sharf: On the market.
Marco Ferrante: You know, it’s an annual calendar, right?
Roman Sharf: Yes I do.
Marco Ferrante: Yeah. Annual calendar Rolex.
Roman Sharf: Thank you. For those that don’t know. So where are the months?
Marco Ferrante: On the hour indicator.
Roman Sharf: On the hour. See that? see that?
Marco Ferrante: You know Rolex was the first one to ever do that? Which is like … I can’t believe that.
Roman Sharf: There weren’t many other watches out there that used our markers as indicators, foresay.
Marco Ferrante: Yeah.
Roman Sharf: You had … Oh my God. Flew out of my head. Good movement maker, made the blackjack watch. Christophe Claret has a lot of watches where he utilizes the markers as an indicator.
Marco Ferrante: Interesting.
Roman Sharf: What is the coolest watch … What is the one watch that has the coolest marker indicators, and I will give you a hint by saying shout out to Niko.
Marco Ferrante: Oh that’s-
Roman Sharf: It is a Hublot. So Manchester United, right. They made a watch for Manchester, it was a big king power, 47, 48 millimeters. We had that watch. They dry froze the grass from the field, from the soccer field, and they stuck it inside these little tiny capsules of the watch. So each marker had a piece of grass from the field. So technically, each watch was kind of unique, I guess, but they dry froze the grass and they put it in each one of the hour markers. So the grass from the actual field is in the Manchester United watch.
Marco Ferrante: Can I one up then?
Roman Sharf: Yes.
Marco Ferrante: Roger Dubois has that Knights of the Round Table watch.
Roman Sharf: I knew you were going to go there. I knew he was going to go there.
Marco Ferrante: So good.
Roman Sharf: Keep tuning in. We appreciate it. We’ll see you tomorrow.