Rainbow Watches, Everywhere, All At Once
Rainbow watches–it’s the trend nearly every major brand is participating in nowadays, often featuring bezels and dials bejeweled in a colorful array of sparkling gemstones. Even if you aren’t on board with the flashy trend, it’s hard to deny how magnificent a perfectly executed gem-set watch can be and, of course, how exclusive they often are, thanks to their unobtainable price tags. But where did the industry’s relatively new affinity for rainbow watches originate, and what are some of the most recent remarkable rainbow watches to hit the market? Let’s explore the topic further.
Rainbow Rolex Daytona
First, allow me to take you back to 2012 and the debut of the most famous rainbow watch of all time – the Rainbow Rolex Daytona. Rolex unveiled the watch at Baselworld 2012, giving collectors the option of either a white gold (ref. 116599RBOW) or yellow gold (ref. 116598RBOW) model. The Daytona glittered with nearly 100 diamonds and gems, each handset by expert Rolex gemologists. The lugs and crown guards were decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, and the bezel featured a rainbow of baguette-cut stones, carefully sized to fit together with the utmost precision.
The Rainbow Daytona was met with mixed reviews upon its release, and it was discontinued after a few years. Some thought of it as garish and excessive, while others appreciated it for its luxurious design set and its potential as a serious collector’s item because of its uniqueness and limited production run. Nonetheless, Rolex released another edition of the Rainbow Daytona in 2018, in the brand’s proprietary 18k rose gold “Everose” (ref. 116595RBOW) featuring the same gem-set bezel. Instead of diamonds at each hour, the second-generation Rainbow Daytona dials feature sapphire baguettes in a rainbow gradient. Pavé diamond dials and diamond-encrusted center links were new options as well.
In 2022, the 116599 RBOW and 116598 RBOW returned, with the same subtle updates the Everose gold version received four years prior. So, for one year, the Rainbow Daytona was offered in all three colors of gold. But with its astronomical six-figure price tag and unconventional design set, the Rolex Rainbow Daytona never had the hallmarks of a watch with staying power. It was quietly discontinued in 2023, adding to its rarity and further bolstering its status as a grail watch and its potential as one of the most expensive Rolex watches on the secondary market.
Now that even the most die-hard watch collectors have had a chance to warm up to the idea of a flashy gem-encrusted edition of the otherwise masculine and precision-driven Daytona, we’ve seen its popularity spike. As a result, other brands are jumping on the rainbow bandwagon, so to speak, and releasing their own variations. With this emerging trend, we’re seeing a fabulous offering of rainbow watches in a diverse selection of styles unique to each brand.
What a colorful time to be a watch collector.
Rolex Daytona Rainbow Specs
| Reference | 116598 RBOW (Yellow gold, produced 2012-2016 and 2022-2023) 116599 RBOW (White gold, produced 2012-2016 and 2022-2023) 116595 RBOW (Everose gold, produced 2018-2023) |
| Case Diameter | 40mm |
| Case Thickness | 12.4mm |
| Bezel | Fixed, set with rainbow-colored sapphires |
| Dial | Black with rainbow baguette sapphire hour markers |
| Movement | Rolex Caliber 4130, Automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters |
| Bracelet/Strap | Everose Gold Oyster Bracelet |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph (hours, minutes, seconds) |
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow”
Patek Philippe released the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” model in 2022, just before Rolex said goodbye to the cult-favorite rainbow Rolex Daytona. The Luce is based on the classic Patek Philippe Aquanaut, featuring a similar rounded octagonal case shape and composite material strap. It was always meant to be a feminine iteration of the series, often featuring smaller proportions and gem-set design sets, so it is no surprise that Patek would use the Aquanaut Luce as a platform to launch a rainbow watch.
However, what comes as a surprise is the slightly larger 39.9mm case, up about 1mm from the rest of the current offerings. With the bezel set in a double row of diamonds and rainbow sapphires, we can only assume the larger case size was necessary to accommodate the glittering bezel. The watch is also the first model in the women’s collection to boast a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement instead of quartz, which could also explain the bigger case size.
The inaugural model ref. 7968/300R features a stunning white mother-of-pearl dial engraved with the iconic Aquanaut dial design and decorated with rose gold Arabic numerals and hands. Colorful sapphire jewels sit above each hour marker to match the gradation in the rainbow bezel. The broader Aquanaut collection is a younger, more contemporary edition of the legendary Nautilus, featuring a sporty rubber strap. The Aquanaut Luce Rainbow follows suit with a selection of rubber options, including red, matte beige, and matte white.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Specs
| Reference | 7968/300R |
| Case Material | Rose gold with sapphire crystal case back |
| Case Diameter | 39.9mm |
| Case Thickness | 10.37 mm |
| Bezel | Fixed, set with two rows of baguettes (rainbow-colored sapphires and diamonds) |
| Dial | White mother-of-pearl dial with Metropolis motif, rainbow sapphire hour markers |
| Movement | Caliber CH 28‑520 (Flyback chronograph, automatic, 8 beats per second) |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Bracelet/Strap | Composite strap with diamond-set folding clasp |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flyback chronograph (minutes, seconds) |
Audemars Piguet Rainbow Royal Oak
Audemars Piguet is no stranger to bold, polarizing design and has wholeheartedly embraced the rainbow trend in recent years. In fact, from 2021-2023, AP released no less than 18 Royal Oak references with a variety of vivid rainbow-themed decorations. All of them were short runs, and almost all of them have a bezel set with a gradient of gemstones. Most of those references, like Rolex’s rainbow bezels, use a spectrum of colored sapphires. But in 2022, a gorgeous openworked rainbow Royal Oak lineup was released, and this time AP chose to use a variety of gems like emeralds and tsavorites to complete the rainbow.
A particularly stunning rainbow Royal Oak reference from Audemars Piguet is the 15413, featuring a pavé diamond dial in a 41mm case made of either white or pink gold.
All rainbow gem-set Audemars Piguet models are crafted in 18k gold. AP rainbow models with titanium or ceramic cases, however, display rainbow imagery in other ways. Iridescent rainbow hues can be seen on the tapisserie dial of the mesmerizing 34mm Royal Oak “Carolina Bucci Edition.” And the titanium and ceramic versions of the Royal Oak Music Edition feature tapisserie dials with a colorfully painted VU meter motif. White gold versions of the Royal Oak Music Edition use gems for the VU meter imagery, and those have the familiar rainbow gem bezels as well. AP even made a perpetual calendar rainbow Royal Oak! We’ll help you keep all of the Audemars Piguet rainbow models straight with this handy chart:
Quick Guide to Audemars Piguet Rainbow Royal Oak Watches
| Reference | Model Name | Case Size | Case Material | Dial | Movement | Approximate Market Price (2023) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 15413BC | Royal Oak Selfwinding | 41mm | 18k White gold | Pavé diamond dial | Caliber 3120 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $295,000 |
| 15413OR | Royal Oak Selfwinding | 41mm | 18k Pink gold | Pavé diamond dial | Caliber 3120 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $300,000 |
| 26236OR | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph | 37mm | 18k Pink gold | Smoked pink gold “Lady Tapisserie” pattern | Calibre 2385 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $160,000 |
| 26229BC | Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon | 38.5mm | 18k White gold | Openworked | Calibre 2951 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $310,000 |
| 15412BA | Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked | 41mm | 18k Yellow gold | Openworked | Calibre 3132 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $600,000 |
| 15412OR | Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked | 41mm | 18k Pink gold | Openworked | Calibre 3132 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $600,000 |
| 15412BC | Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked | 41mm | 18k White gold | Openworked | Calibre 3132 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $600,000 |
| 15468BA | Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked | 37mm | 18k Yellow gold | Openworked | Calibre 3132 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $270,000 |
| 15468OR | Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked | 37mm | 18k Pink gold | Openworked | Calibre 3132 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | $325,000 |
| 15468BC | Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked | 37mm | 18k White gold | Openworked | Calibre 3132 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) | ~$295,000 |
| 266140OR | Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar | 41mm | 18k Pink gold | Tapisserie | Calibre 5134 (Automatic, 5.5 beats per second) | $600,000 |
| 15601BC | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition | 43mm | 18k White gold | Aventurine with gem-set VU meter motif | Calibre 4309 (8 beats per second) | $400,000 |
| 77600BC | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition | 37mm | 18k White gold | Aventurine with gem-set VU meter motif | Calibre 5909 (8 beats per second) | $400,000 |
| 15600TI | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition | 43mm | Titanium | Tapisserie with VU meter motif | Calibre 4309 (8 beats per second) | $60,000 |
| 77600TI | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition | 37mm | Titanium | Tapisserie with VU meter motif | Calibre 5909 (8 beats per second) | $45,000 |
| 15600CE | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition | 43mm | Ceramic | Tapisserie with VU meter motif | Calibre 4309 (8 beats per second) | $75,000 |
| 77600CE | Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition | 37mm | Ceramic | Tapisserie with VU meter motif | Calibre 5909 (8 beats per second) | $65,000 |
| 77350CE | Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci edition | 34mm | Ceramic | Tapisserie with iridescent rainbow color | Calibre 5800 (8 beats per second) | $80,000 |
Audemars Piguet Rainbow Royal Oak Collection
The brand rang in the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary in 2022 in rather grand fashion by releasing impressive one-off “rainbow” collections of gem-set white gold Royal Oaks in both 37mm (ref. 15554BC) and 41mm (ref. 15514BC) sizes. Each is covered in a different single type of gemstone, so it’s only when set side by side that the ten watches create a vibrant rainbow.
Each dial is covered in a field of 152 carefully selected baguette-cut stones (in different sizes depending on the case size) to mirror the Royal Oak’s signature “Tapisserie” waffle dial. You’ll also notice that there are no hour markers, a design choice meant to keep the spotlight on the gemstones themselves. More baguette-cut stones spill outward onto the bezel, crown, case, and bracelet. In total, the 41mm model is covered in 861 gems in 179 different sizes, and the 37mm model is adorned with 790 stones in 153 different sizes.
As if that weren’t remarkable enough already, AP has chosen unconventional watchmaking stones for the rainbow collection. Rather than a simple gradient of sapphires, they’ve used Tanzanites, pink tourmalines, amethysts, blue topaz, and yellow chrysoberyls, just to name a few. The gemstones look like they’re floating on the watch, an illusion achieved using a sophisticated invisible gem-setting technique; each stone has a small incision that snaps securely onto a hidden rail in the gold settings.
Audemars Piguet 50th Anniversary Royal Oak Collection Specs
| Reference | 15514BC | 15554BC |
|---|---|---|
| Model Name | Royal Oak Selfwinding 50th Anniversary Edition | Royal Oak Selfwinding 50th Anniversary Edition |
| Case Size | 41mm | 37mm |
| Case Thickness | 11.6mm | 10mm |
| Case Material | White gold | White gold |
| Dial | Tapisserie set with 152 baguettes | Tapisserie set with 152 baguettes |
| Movement | Calibre 4309 (8 beats per second) | Calibre 5909 (8 beats per second) |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours | 60 hours |
| Water Resistance | 20 meters | 20 meters |
| Bracelet/Strap | White gold bracelet set with baguettes | White gold bracelet set with baguettes |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Approximate Market Price (2023) | $375,000 | $300,000 |
Hublot Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow
Hublot’s design philosophy centers around the concept of “Art of Fusion,” which often celebrates unorthodox design elements. So, naturally, the brand also joined in on the rainbow mania beginning in 2017. Recently, Hublot graced us with a dazzling duo of Rainbow Big Bang models with integrated bracelets, one with a time-only movement (ref. 456.OX.0180.OX.3999) and one with a chronograph movement (ref. 451.OX.1180.OX.3999). Their “Art of Fusion” ideology embraces the pairing of precious and non-precious materials in watches. Hublot has done that here by incorporating their proprietary warm-tone King Gold with rubber accents. The colorful jewels in various sizes and shapes put this stunning duo over the top in a way only a rainbow watch could.
The Big Bang Integrated Time Only King Gold Rainbow ref. 456.OX.0180.OX.3999 is dripping in a sea of 176 gemstones on the case and an astonishing 748 gemstones on the bracelet, each placed in a perfect rainbow gradation. Even though Hublot has crowned this a “time only” model, it has a date at 6 o’clock. Besides that minor detail, the dial is relatively clean and uncluttered, particularly compared to its chronograph counterpart. The tabs on either side of the case are covered in black rubber to represent the brand’s signature fusion of materials. It’s also worth noting that the time-only model is slightly smaller, measuring 40mm in diameter and around 10mm thick, and is powered by the caliber HUB1710 self-winding mechanical movement.
The Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow ref. 451.OX.1180.OX.3999 is similar to the time-only model, featuring 174 gemstones on the case and 768 on the bracelet. The dial looks a bit busier than the time-only model, and understandably so. Two chronograph sub-dials flank either side of the case, one at 3 o’clock accompanied by a date window and the other at 9 o’clock. This watch is also more robust, measuring 42mm in diameter and just over 13mm thick, and houses the caliber HUB1280 Unico self-winding chronograph movement.
Hublot Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow Specs
| 451.OX.1180.OX.3999 | 456.OX.0180.OX.3999 | |
|---|---|---|
| Model Name | Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow Chronograph | Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow |
| Case Size | 42mm | 42mm |
| Case Material | 18k King Gold | 18k King Gold |
| Dial | Skeletonized | Skeletonized |
| Movement | HUB1280 Unico (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | HUB1710 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
| Power Reserve | 72h | 50h |
| Water Resistance | 100m | 100m |
| Bracelet/Strap | 18k King Gold bracelet | 18k King Gold bracelet |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph (minutes, seconds) | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Approximate Market Price (2023) | $160,000 | $140,000 |
The Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow is far from the only Hublot rainbow watch, however. Like Audemars Piguet, Hublot has made well over a dozen rainbow gem-set references in recent history. Keeping with Hublot’s affinity for varied materials, they’ve offered rainbow watches with cases made of titanium, gold, steel, and sapphire. Most rainbow Hublot watches are Big Bang models, but there are a few others too. To help you keep all of Hublot’s rainbow references straight, we’ve put them in a table for you:
Quick Guide to Hublot Rainbow Watches
| Reference Number | Model Name | Case Size | Case Material | Dial | Movement | Approximate Market Price (2023) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 451.OX.1180.OX.3999 | Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow Chronograph | 42mm | 18k King Gold | Skeletonized | HUB1280 Unico (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $160,000 |
| 456.OX.0180.OX.3999 | Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow | 40mm | 18k King Gold | Skeletonized | HUB1710 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $140,000 |
| 455.WX.9900.WX.9999 | Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow | 43mm | 18k White gold | Skeletonized | HUB6035 (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second) | $475,000 |
| 455.OX.9900.OX.9999 | Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow | 43mm | 18k King Gold | Skeletonized | HUB6035 (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second) | $500,000 |
| 405.JX.0120.RT.4099 | Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow | 45mm | Sapphire | Skeletonized | HUB6016 (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second) | $135,000 |
| 441.NX.1117.LR.0999 | Big Bang Unico Titanium Rainbow | 42mm | Titanium | Skeletonized | HUB1280 Unico (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $50,000 |
| 421.NX.1117.LR.0999 | Big Bang Unico Titanium Rainbow | 44mm | Titanium | Skeletonized | HUB1280 Unico (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $70,000 |
| 441.OX.1118.LR.0999 | Big Bang Unico King Gold Rainbow | 42mm | 18k King Gold | Skeletonized | HUB1280 Unico (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $70,000 |
| 909.QDRB.1120.LR | MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Rainbow 3D Carbon | 49mm | Carbon with rainbow-colored combosite inserts | Skeletonized | HUB9009.H1.RA (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second) | $200,000 |
| 507.JX.0800.RT.TAK21 | Hublot x Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow Classic Fusion | 45mm | Sapphire | Rainbow gem sunflower motif | HUB1214 Unico (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $150,000 |
| 485.OX.9900.LR.0999 | Big Bang One Click King Gold Rainbow | 33mm | 18k King Gold | Pave rainbow gems | HUB1120 (Automatic, 8 beats per second, Sellita SW300 base) | $70,000 |
| 485.SX.9900.LR.0999 | Big Bang One Click Steel Rainbow | 33mm | Steel | Pave rainbow gems | HUB1120 (Automatic, 8 beats per second, Sellita SW300 base) | $60,000 |
| 642.OX.0118.LR.0999 | Spirit of Big Bang Rainbow Chronograph | 42mm | 18k King Gold | Skeletonized | HUB4700 (Automatic, 10 beats per second, Zenith El Primero base) | $80,000 |
| 662.OX.9900.LR.0999 | Spirit of Big Bang Rainbow | 39mm | 18k King Gold | Pave rainbow gems | HUB1710 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $65,000 |
| 665.NX.9910.LR.0999 | Spirit of Big Bang Rainbow | 39mm | Titanium | Pave rainbow gems | HUB1710 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) | $60,000 |
| 645.JX.5120.RT.4099 | Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow | 42mm | Sapphire | Skeletonized | HUB6020 (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second) | $95,000 |
| 641.JX.0120.RT.4099 | Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow Chronograph | 42mm | Sapphire | Skeletonized | HUB4700 (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second) | $100,000 |
Although we feel these are four of the strongest brands in the rainbow watch category, these prestigious pieces are only a handful of the many magnificent rainbow watches on the market. Production never seems to last long, so you may have to resort to the secondary market. Regardless, these watches represent the top echelon of watchmaking and gem-setting, a feat worth celebrating, even if you don’t have the budget to add a six-figure luxury watch to your collection.
More Exotic Gem-Set Watches:
The Best Diamond Watches for Men
The Gem-Set Patek Philippe 5271P
Patek’s Haute Joaillerie Nautilus: 7118/300R
Richard Heart’s Iced-Out Watch Collection
$5 Million Hublot – Baselworld 2012’s Most Expensive Watch
