Dive watches are easily one of the most sought-after timepieces in watchmaking, and not just by professional divers and adventurous outdoorsmen, either. The everyday collector can appreciate the unique, inherently stylish aesthetics of a really exceptional dive watch without ever dipping a toe in the water. Since the dive watch boom of the 1950s, a seemingly infinite selection of collection-worthy watches has flooded the market, making it hard to find the perfect model for your wrist. This brief guide will attempt to break down the best dive watches for 2024, starting with one of the forefathers of the modern dive watch as we know it today, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and other popular models such as the Rolex Submariner, Tudor Black Bay, Panerai Submersible, and more.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5015
2023 marked the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms, an occasion Blancpain celebrated by releasing a few limited-edition (and one annual production) anniversary models, neatly packaged as ACT 1, ACT 2, and ACT 3, throughout the year. The brand also collaborated with Swatch to bring us the Blancpain X Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms, a colorful collection of bioceramic mechanical watches modeled after the five oceans. All eyes were on the world’s first modern dive watch in 2023, which could make the Fifty Fathoms a hopeful favorite heading into 2024.
While the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary models were certainly buzzworthy, it’s the Automatique ref. 5015 that we think has more potential as the best dive watch for 2024. It’s more readily available than the anniversary models. Additionally, it has been a pillar of the brand’s portfolio since the mid-2000s, never straying too far from the design of the earliest interpretations of the watch, even featuring the same automatic caliber 1315 movement, 45mm case, and innovative domed sapphire crystal bezel. It’s an evergreen model instantly recognizable as a legendary Blancpain Fifty Fathoms – factors that might be important to experienced and novice Blancpain collectors.
Today, collectors can find the watch on the grey market in a bevy of design set options, from the black DLC-coated “Dark Knight” ref. 5015 11C30 52A to the classic stainless steel models with black dials and bezels, like current-production ref. 5015 1130 71S.
Current Production Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ref. 5015 Specs:
Reference Numbers: | 5015-12B40-O52A, 5015-1130-52A, 5015-1130-71S, 5015 12B30 NABA, 5015-12B40-NAOA, 5015 12B30 B52B, 5015-12B30-98, 5015-12B40-98, 5015E 1130 B52A, 5015-3630-52A, 5015A-3630-63B, 5015 3603C 63B |
Case Size: | 45mm |
Metal: | Stainless Steel, Titanium, Red Gold |
Bezel: | Unidirectional Scratch-Resistant Sapphire |
Movement: | 1315 |
Depth-Rating: | 300 Meters/1,000 Feet |
Retail Price: | $15,300 – $37,500 |
Tudor Black Bay 54 Ref. 79000
Blancpain developed the Fifty Fathoms Automatique ref. 5015 during a time when the industry was embracing larger watches. The Tudor Black Bay 54, on the other hand, follows the smaller watch trend with an attractive 37mm case. New for 2023, ref. 79000 represents another scaling-down of the famous vintage-inspired collection that initially featured the Black Bay in 41mm and later the Black Bay 58 in 39mm. Like the rest of the Tudor Black Bay offerings, the new collection recalls a dive watch from the brand’s past, Tudor’s first dive watch ref. 7922, released in 1954, to be exact. It has a similar gilt-style dial, hash-less 60-minute diver’s scale, and is available on the Black Bay’s signature rivet-link bracelet. Well, they’re faux rivets but they sufficiently evoke a vintage aesthetic.
The watch is powered by the same Tudor caliber MT5400 driving other Tudor time-only models, such as the Black Bay 58, Black Bay 36, and Pelagos 39. Impressively, it offers a 70-hour power reserve and is tucked inside a svelte 37mm case with water resistance up to 200 meters.
Tudor Black Bay 54 Ref. 79000 Specs:
Reference Numbers: | M79000N-0001, M79000N-0002 |
Case Size: | 37mm |
Metal: | Stainless Steel |
Bracelet: | Stainless Steel Bracelet or Rubber Strap |
Bezel: | Unidirectional Aluminum |
Movement: | MT5400 |
Depth-Rating: | 200 Meters/660 Feet |
Retail Price: | $3,700 (Rubber Strap) $3,900 (Bracelet) |
Best Dive Watch Complete Lineup: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M
The Seamaster celebrated 75 years of maritime adventure and innovation in 2023. Several sub-models have joined Omega‘s storied dive watch lineup since 1948, including the dressier Aqua Terra, robust Planet Ocean, and Diver 300M, each boasting some amount of water resistance. The model we think we will see on more wrists in 2024 is the ever-popular Seamaster Professional Diver 300M – the iconic James Bond watch distinguished by a rotatable bezel and often a striking wave dial with skeleton hands. It’s an incredibly approachable collection, featuring a model to suit nearly anyone’s preferences, from simple time-and-date models in stainless steel to capable chronograph divers and luxurious models decorated with precious metal. Notably, 300M chronographs can even be safely activated underwater!
Current Production Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Specs:
Case Size: | 28mm, 36.25mm, 42mm, 43.5mm, 44mm |
Metal: | Stainless Steel, Steel/Gold, Gold, Ceramic, Titanium, Tantalum |
Bracelet: | Stainless Steel, Gold, NATO Strap, Polyamide, Rubber, Titanium, Tantalum |
Bezel: | Unidirectional |
Movement: | 9901, 9900, 8807, 8806, 8801, 8800, 3330, 2500, 1424 (quartz) |
Depth-Rating: | 300 Meters/1,000 Feet |
Retail Price: | $2,400 USD – $33,400 USD |
Rolex Submariner 41
Rolex prefers to fine-tune its existing lineup rather than constantly churn out new models, and the Submariner is one of the best examples of that philosophy. Although perfected over the years, its design is not too unlike the inaugural model from the 1950s, still featuring a waterproof Oyster case, luminescent hour markers and hands, and a 60-minute bezel. In 2020, the Crown released the latest expressions of the Submariner, upgrading the case to 41mm and outfitting it with new versions of its time-only and date movements – calibers 3230 & 3235.
There are currently a handful of iterations in production, each featuring the lustrous ceramic bezel that has since become a cornerstone of the collection, Chromalight, and a Triplock crown rated waterproof up to 300 meters/1,000 feet. All the classic models are still in rotation, including the James Bond-esque Oystersteel model, Yellow Rolesor “Bluesy” pairing steel and yellow gold with a blue dial and bezel, solid yellow gold, solid white gold, and even an updated version of the green bezel/black dial Kermit.
Current Production Rolex Submariner 41 Specs:
Reference Numbers: | 124060, 126610LN, 126610LV, 126613LB, 126613LN, 126618LB, 126618LN, 126619LB |
Case Size: | 41mm |
Metal: | Oystersteel, Yellow Rolesor, 18k Yellow Gold, 18k White Gold |
Bezel: | Unidirectional Cerachrom |
Movement: | 3230, 3235 |
Depth-Rating: | 300 Meters/1,000 Feet |
Retail Price: | $9,100 USD – $42,000 USD |
Best Dive Watch for Milsub Fans: Tudor Pelagos FXD
The Tudor Pelagos “FXD” builds on the classic Pelagos foundation but with fixed bars – hence the name “FXD.” However, the strap loops through slots cut into the case instead of featuring actual strap bars. It’s a unique design dreamt up by Tudor to celebrate its highly anticipated reunion with Marine Nationale in 2021, and it’s already picking up considerable momentum in the watch-collecting community. The “MilSub,” as Tudor describes it, is an honest interpretation of a military watch, but you can read more about that here.
Since it released the Pelagos FXD, Tudor has given us four different models, including two carbon composite Alinghi Red Bull Racing models (25807KN – Chrono & 25707KN), a classic titanium/black dial and bezel model (25717N), and, of course, the Marine Nationale model released in 2021 (25707B) featuring a striking titanium and blue design set and “M.N.” case back.
Current Production Tudor Pelagos FXD Specs:
Reference Numbers: | M25717N-0001, M25807KN-0001, M25707KN-0001, M25707B/24-0001 |
Case Size: | 42mm, 43mm (Alinghi Red Bull Racing Chrono) |
Metal: | Titanium, Black Carbon Composite |
Bracelet: | Fabric Strap |
Bezel: | Bidirectional, Unidirectional (M25717N-0001)/Inserts: Ceramic, Black Carbon Composite |
Movement: | MT5602, MT5813 |
Depth-Rating: | 200 Meters/660 Feet |
Retail Price: | $4,150 USD – $5,275 USD |
Best Dive Watch with Square Case: Bell & Ross Diver Ref. BR 03-92
The Bell & Ross Diver occupies a unique niche in an industry dominated by classic round dive watches, featuring a round dial fixed to a polarizing square “instrument” case. The curiously shaped Diver, ref. BR 03-92, was a first for the brand when it debuted in 2017 and boasts true dive watch capabilities, including substantial water resistance, a dial that is easy to read at a glance in both dark and light environments, and a 60-minute bezel. Today, collectors of all professions appreciate designs like this one because they are incredibly legible and inherently durable. The B&R Diver takes that design ethos one step further with a visually intriguing aesthetic unlike anything else on the market. Today, collectors have their choice of stainless steel, bronze, and even ceramic models on rubber or leather straps.
Current Production Bell & Ross Diver Ref. BR 03-92 Specs:
Reference Numbers: | BR 03-92 |
Case Size: | 42mm |
Metal: | Stainless Steel, Ceramic, Bronze |
Bezel: | Unidirectional/Ceramic, Aluminum |
Movement: | BR-CAL. 302 |
Depth-Rating: | 300 Meters/1,000 Feet |
Retail Price: | $3,990 USD – $5,600 USD |
Best Dive Watch with Cushion Case: Panerai Submersible Ref. PAM 1389
Speaking of unusually shaped dive watches, Panerai’s signature Submersible dive watch is another industry staple in the running for the best diver watch. While the B&R Diver is, without a doubt, square, the Submersible features the robust cushion-shaped case that has defined much of the brand’s catalog for decades. We also can’t forget that iconic crescent-shaped crown guard that securely holds the crown in place – a feature that largely contributes to Panerai’s legendary look. It’s a traditional Panerai watch, through and through, but with the added functionality of a rotatable diver’s bezel.
There seems to be an endless selection of metals, dial colors, and even case sizes available both at retail and on the secondary market. Ref. PAM 1389 is one of the models that embodies the modern dive watch best, featuring a sharp black dial with luminescent hour markers and hands and a matching black 60-minute bezel. While many associate classic dive watches with steel, this model sports titanium that balances the heft of the robust 47mm case perfectly on the wrist. We’d love to see this model soar in 2024.
Panerai Submersible Ref. PAM 1389 Specs:
Reference Number: | PAM 1389 |
Case Size: | 47mm |
Metal: | Titanium |
Bezel: | Unidirectional Ceramic |
Movement: | P.9010 |
Depth-Rating: | 300 Meters/1,000 Feet |
Pre-Owned Panerai Price: | Approx. $7,500 USD – $10,000 USD |
This list only scratches the surface of the best luxury dive watches today. Which one are you adding to your watch box in 2024?
More About The Featured Brands In This Article:
The Best Entry-Level Blancpain Watches
How To Sell A Tudor Watch
What Is The Price Of An Omega Seamaster?
Entry-Level Omega Watch Models – The Best of the Bunch
How Much Can I Get for My Used Rolex Submariner?
The Best Panerai Watch